Sawmill Shed Pole Building

[TimW]

Either I am confused or you are.  My trusses will be 40 feet wide.  So that puts a 40 foot wide opening at each end.

[TimW]

I have the shed site cleared off.  Taking it slow and easy, because of the market craziness right now.

 

 

[TimW]

I finally broke ground on the sawmill shed site.  I have to cut into the hill 9 more inches.

 

View from my back porch.

 

[doc henderson]

very nice.  no more tarps!   8)

[TimW]

very nice.  no more tarps!  8)

Doc,
          Thanks!  ...........and more room too. 
The tarp blew off last October (lasted about 3 months) when high winds whipped though here.  Just broke the ropes and flew over my fence.  The winds dropped a dead tree of neighbor's on my fence too.

That day the Kohler generator kicked on and ran an hour.
             

[TimW]

I got another weekend in moving dirt for the shed.  Right before dusk Sunday, I stacked out the corners.  Under roof will be 40x80 with 40x60 being on concrete.

 

The grader blade I designed and made for the CAT is the cat's meow.  It doesn't realize it is 8 foot wide digging into roots and hard clay, if I get the cutting edge angled right.

 

 

 

[Don P]

You would think a Cat could pull itself out on level ground  ;D

I like the scraper blade, what a ditch cleaner.

[barbender]

Have to get yourself one of those tilt attachments, you'd about be able to Butter toast with it then😁

[Andries]

That looks like a terrific attachment Bindian. Nice work on the design/build!
Don't let the neighbours see you with it - or you'll be packing and levelling pads for all of 'em. 😉😄

[TimW]

Have to get yourself one of those tilt attachments, you'd about be able to Butter toast with it then😁

Don't need a tilt attachment.  Just lift a track and push dirt under it.  It all tilts then. :D
Once a little tilt on the grade, the slop in the chain allows the blade to drop to the tilted contour.

[TimW]

You would think a Cat could pull itself out on level ground  ;D

I like the scraper blade, what a ditch cleaner.

She weighs 15,500 pounds.  There is not that much force in the dipper stick.  But don't get me wrong....those 600mm wide tracks are like ice skates in the right conditions.  Namely downhill with a layer of slick, not packed mud.  Don't ask me why I know that.  :-[

Last Saturday I was doing exactly that.............cleaning out the ditches that leads pond overflow downstream.  Also.............................Thanks!

[TimW]

That looks like a terrific attachment Bindian. Nice work on the design/build!
Don't let the neighbours see you with it - or you'll be packing and levelling pads for all of 'em. 😉😄

Thanks.  I built a 6 footer for my backhoe years ago.
         

[TimW]

I screwed up and remembered the level stakes wrong and sloped the pad too much.  The stake I read wrong had a pencil mark 18 inches up from grade for level and I thought it was to the bottom of the stake for level.  So the whole time I was sloping the pad downhill.  Here I am digging down to move it to the other end.

 
The pad to the left, where Fritz is standing, will be used as fill for the approaches.

[OH logger]

Fritz looks jealous that you can dig WAY faster than he can!!!

[TimW]

Fritz looks jealous that you can dig WAY faster than he can!!!

.  He's also thinking he can't jump that far with his short legs. :D

[TimW]

Been taking it slow.  I think I have the pad level enough for now.  Gotta stake out the corners and call my foundation guy to come check.

 

 

 

[TimW]

I am having conflicted thoughts on when to notch the tops of the 6x6 posts for the 2x12s.  Should I do it on the ground, and adjust the hole depth upon installation, or set the posts, then build a movable scaffold and notch them up in the air 13 feet?

The 6x6s will be in a plastisleeve.com sleeve after treating with Eco wood treatment or Copper Naphthenate.  I have both on hand and am leaning to Eco wood treatment, as it is non toxic.  But I haven't used it yet in a project.  My new bee hive arrived coated in Eco.

[barbender]

Brandi, I don't know what you're using for shooting grade. I worked on a grading crew for years, and while we very often had the rotary laser set up, I frequently shot grades with a pocket eye level that you can get at hardware stores for about $15-$20. You won't have the same precision as lasers, but on anything where 1" accuracy is sufficient they get the job done. You can get one at Ace, maybe Home Depot.

[barbender]

Johnson   Hand-Held Sight Level
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-Hand-Held-Sight-Level-80-5556/202911589
SKU# 202911589

[TimW]

My foundation guy uses a laser transient.  But I will check out the hand held sight level.  Thanks!

[TimW]

So this can be used to shoot elevations on posts 40 feet away, as long as someone is there to put a mark on the spot?

[TimW]

I just ordered one on Amazon for under $20.  Should be here May 30th. Free returns!  I would think it works just fine if you lay on the ground and look.  We will see.

[Don P]

That is ok for shooting rough grade, that is not your building level. There are little $100 self leveling lasers in the tool aisle. No good in daylight (that's why we have night  ;D) and only good for about 50' but good to around 1/4" in that distance.

On the posts, if they are in ground contact, it doesn't matter about the post diaper and 1/8" deep penetration, that will be a short lived building. You need toxic treatment to the bone.  Untreated or paint on/dipped coatings needs to be above ground. Those are kind of pretend treatments, better than a poke in the eye, but not much better. 

If the footings are flat and smooth you can shoot from a benchmark to the footing, figure depth and height and notch on the ground. That is prone to errors. If I can get around easily I prefer getting them up and shooting a line on all of them to serve as my benchmark elevation, then measure up from that level mark and cut in air.

[beenthere]

I found a transit level for $75 complete with tripod on CL when I was in need of shooting some elevations. Had all the bubbles and adj. knobs to fine tune it and the scope with cross-hairs to sight in on a target or rule. Used but in fine shape with carrying case. Maybe another possibility. 

[btulloh]

Cutting them standing takes the guesswork out of it. Make benchmarks at a comfortable height like Don P said the cut a story stick that defines the top. Mark a line on the story stick that defines the bottom of the notch and tack the story stick to the post. It's easier than fumbling around with a tape. You can use the same method for marking the girt placement.

Use your Lull with a man lift instead of the scaffolding to cut the notches. A frame from an IBC tote makes a good inexpensive man lift, btw.  Just put a strap on it to secure it to the forks.  

I'm looking forward to seeing your building come together.  

In lieu of lasers and all that, a water level works just fine for finding your benchmarks.