Skidding logs with a tractor

[beenthere]

Did it look something like this one?


 

[Okrafarmer]

Yes, that is exactly the concept, but ours was triangular, A-frame, with a cross-piece near the top where we hooked the chains, that way we could get some real height out of them. Later, we added a lower cross piece, about half-way down to add more chains. Early on, with just the one cross-piece, it had two chain notches, and we would use both ends of a single chain to pull two logs. Later, we added the second cross bar with two more notches, to add two ends of another chain.

[Raider Bill]

Is the class size difference for a bigger or smaller tractor or is it the quality of the hitch adapter?

[Ohio_Bill]

Category 0 3 Point Hitch
This category is intended for tractors up to 20 Horsepower
Toplink Pins are 5/8" diameter
Lift Arm Pins are 5/8" diameter

Category 1 3 Point HitchThis category is intended for tractors 20 to 45 Horsepower
Toplink Pins are 3/4" diameter
Lift Arm Pins are 7/8" diameter

Category 2 3 Point Hitch
This category is intended for tractors 55-95 Horsepower
Toplink Pins are 1" diameter
Lift Arm Pins are 1 1/8" diameter

Category 3 3 Point Hitch
This category is for tractors above 95 Horsepower
Toplink Pins are 1 1/4" diameter
Lift Arm Pins are 1 7/16" diameter

[Okrafarmer]

If your tractor is equipped with category 2 and you want to use a cat 1 implement, you can insert bushings into the holes to take up the slack. These bushings can be made by a fab shop or are available from tractor dealers, Tractor Supply, and so on. But I would be careful about using any Cat 1 implements with a tractor over, say, 65 hp or so, as a more powerful tractor can tear up small implements not designed for that much power.

[Raider Bill]

Thank You!

[Raider Bill]

In thinking about this attachment does it help distribute the weight of say a bush hog or other heavy implement on the 3pt?

[beenthere]

In thinking about this attachment does it help distribute the weight of say a bush hog or other heavy implement on the 3pt?

RB
Are you referring to the quick hitch?

If so, it puts the weight a few inches further back.
The advantage for me is the quick hitch and go - don't have to spend the time and effort of pushing and pulling to align pin holes. Only get off the tractor to hook up the PTO (and even those are being improved to quick attach).
For example, usually once a week in the winter, I'll drop the ballast box and attach the forks to move a pallet of firewood, and the drop the forks and pick up the ballast box without getting off the tractor.

[Raider Bill]

Yes sorry the quick hitch.

I sometimes struggle getting the 3 pt pins to line up. I watch the locals they got it figured out but I don't have that experience. Maybe this will help. Also thinking it will "share" the strain between all 3 points.
I'm going to find out what size my pins are then buy a quick hitch to match the class and have it shipped to the Tenn property so it's there next trip.
Also looking for a old hay spear.

[beenthere]

If'n you have the quick hitch, you won't need a bale spear for log tongs (unless you need to spear bales. )

[Tdawg]

Well I hope you're all happy...especially you, Okrafarmer. I was just sitting here minding my own business, perusing the forum (I find it interesting when 12 year old threads are brought back to life :D :D), when you had to pull the antique tractor card outta of your sleeves. One of my first memories is of learning to drive an old Ford 9N (I mean it was old in the 1960's). Drove it right through a split rail fence...another memory is how to rebuild a split rail fence :D :D :D. So now I've got an itch that I thought had been scratched along time ago...and I might have to take a look at the bank account!

Seriously though, I'm in the midst of buying a decent sized woodlot. Eventually, I'll clear out a couple acres for a building site and also manage the forest. I have a skid steer and access to a backhoe and an excavator, so equipment isn't an issue. I just like the idea of moving logs with an old tractor, hell I'd buy a team of horses if I had a place to keep them. So my question is-would a 1950 something Ford 8N or a Massey Ferguson 135 or 50 have enough HP to drag around some good sized hardwood logs?

[Tdawg]

Believe they come in cat. I or cat. II whichever you have (likely cat I)

Speeco, Harbor Freight, Deere iMatch are some.

Also here is vid. It is in some foreign language, but the visual is good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kam1f1uMyYE

Beenthere, I used Google Translator... still sounds a little odd though :D ;D :D ;D

[beenthere]

 :D :D

The 8N Ford in reasonably good condition will pull out some pretty decent size logs. Everything has its limits tho. One limit I remember well is sometimes had to have two on the hood to keep the front end down. The 3 ph had plenty of power to lift and hanging weights on the front meant less traction moving about without a 3ph load (and no power steering or front wheel drive assist).
Just a bit of a nuisance was having to have the 8N PTO engaged to run the hyd. pump which also meant the clutch had to be engaged to lift anything. That or adjust it on the go to keep the log off the ground and the front wheels close to the ground.

[Okrafarmer]

Well I hope you're all happy...especially you, Okrafarmer.

So my question is-would a 1950 something Ford 8N or a Massey Ferguson 135 or 50 have enough HP to drag around some good sized hardwood logs?

Yeah, man. Especially the 135 or 50. But read my big post carefully.

[Okrafarmer]

Just a bit of a nuisance was having to have the 8N PTO engaged to run the hyd. pump which also meant the clutch had to be engaged to lift anything. That or adjust it on the go to keep the log off the ground and the front wheels close to the ground.

It was the same for the John Deere B. You should always have your foot ready to jam on the clutch, and your hand ready to drop the 3-point hitch if you have a real heavy log on there. The JD B's hand clutch was safer than a foot clutch for that sort of thing (assuming you are accustomed to it) but if I were to do that kind of logging with a foot-clutch tractor not equipped with a roll-bar, then I think it would be wise to rig up a little wire with a kill-switch at the end of it to kill your engine ignition with a quick panic-hit to the switch. Then hold the little kill-switch in your non-steering hand while hauling logs. It is so hard to jam your foot on the clutch in time, your hand can react a lot quicker. All it takes is a split second to walk your tractor over backward and crush you. This can happen even if you do not use the 3-point hitch-- ie, using a chain pulling from the drawbar. Your log can snag on a stump or other obstacle and flip you over.  People die that way.

[thecfarm]

Depends on how much you want to use it. I feel it's an old tractor,the metal is old on it and things break. I have a 1954 NAA Ford that is no longer in use. It's a little bit bigger and better designed than the 8 and 9n.  But we use to haul out some good size logs without beating on it to do it. My land is hard to work on,uneven places,small knolls,rocks. My Father would get so called stuck with it. Get behind a rock sticking up and a stump on the other wheel and there he was. Would have to try to back up and set over or just unhook and drive forward. We use to put some 4 foot wood over some of the rough parts to get us over them.

[Raider Bill]

Believe they come in cat. I or cat. II whichever you have (likely cat I)

Speeco, Harbor Freight, Deere iMatch are some.

Also here is vid. It is in some foreign language, but the visual is good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kam1f1uMyYE

Beenthere, I used Google Translator... still sounds a little odd though :D ;D :D ;D

I saw that video Speeco is actually the one I'm thinking of buying. $261 plus a few sets of extra adapters. Just a tad over $300 plus shipping.

[simonmeridew]

I pulled out half a dozen or more cords of hardwood firewood and fir/spruce sawlogs etc every year for 20 years with my 8N;  Logs of maybe 100 board feet skidded easily, traction was normally not a problem, double ring chains help after the ground freezes. The biggest issue was having to back down to the log, backing down into a ravine, backing into a spot where live trees you're trying not to damage, block your way, getting hung up on stumps, and trying to move a log stuck behind a stump or rock.
Compare to now with my Kubota and a Farmi winch: still a lot of hard work, but much safer! In any event, get a snatch block!
simonmeridew

[Tdawg]

I'm not overly concerned about the safety aspect. If I ever got into an issue, I have some gear with serious rollover protection. I have the equipment that can do the job but fartin' around on an old tractor just appeals to me for some strange reason. Before I spend any cash, I want to make sure that the old girl can actually pull something.

[Okrafarmer]

Well, just remember, some accidents happen when we expect them, but most happen when we don't expect them. You only have one chance, every second of your life, to keep from messing up. 

Yes, if any of those old tractors are running right, they will pull logs if you do it in an effective way. My grandpa used to cut his firewood stove length and pull it out of the woods in a trailer with his Farmall Cub.  ;) The Ford N tractors have 3-point hitch, and they may not be able to match the John Deere B, but they will still pull logs. If you really want to get your oaks out in a hurry, use a John Deere 60. One of my neighbors used a John Deere G-- that's a bit overkill, but it bridged the gap between a model B and the first skidders.

[js2743]

pulling with a tractor is ok but really you should be pulling with the draw bar or the lift arms. all the pics I see posted in this thread the pulling point is being put on the top link which puts a lot of stress on the top of the tractor housing. which all tractor manufacturers claim is a big no no. 

[Okrafarmer]

pulling with a tractor is ok but really you should be pulling with the draw bar or the lift arms. all the pics I see posted in this thread the pulling point is being put on the top link which puts a lot of stress on the top of the tractor housing. which all tractor manufacturers claim is a big no no.

The top link takes a lot of stress any time you are using a heavy 3-point implement. I don't really think it's a big problem. Now, as I have stated before, you must not treat your tractor as if it is actually a skidder. It is not as strong as a skidder.

The top link for the John Deere B does not attach to the rear central housing. It attaches by means of a Y-shaped yoke to the rear axle, where there are bolts for mounting fenders, a loader, or other mounted implements. We never had any problem with that. Did break the actual top-link itself once, but it was home-made, not factory.

[lumberjack48]

I was pulling a low tired trailer behind a Allis Chalmers B when i was 12 yrs old. It reared up on me a couple times, all most went over one time [ scary] it was a miracle it didn't get hurt.



  

When i was 16 i used this M-Moline we had. I pulled a wooden dray that dad had made for the OC-3 Oliver cat, it held a full cord. I was strip cutting at the time, i thought why am i piling the wood in the woods then loading on the dray. Why not take the dray in the woods and pile the wood on that. When i got it loaded i'd hook the Moline up and out to the landing we'd go. You stood up to drive it, with a hand clutch, it was a G series, 6 cylinder, she liked her gas, count how many gals. of gas you used, you knew how many cds you skidded. This is a pic of one like it.



 

[simonmeridew]

Tdawg:
You will be able to pull an amazing sized log with an 8N. Mostly I skidded with mine in 3rd gear, (out of 4 forward) but if the going got tough, or up hill, I dropped down to 2nd. To give you an idea of the log size I have pulled, I had a 10 foot sugar maple log, 16 in diameter top end that I pulled down to my landing, lifting the butt end with the 3pth. I went back up to get the 2nd log, same length, 14 in top end and pulled it down to the landing. I had my friend mill it out with his wood mizer,  5/4, and had 4 boards sawed to 1/2 inch. The five quarter boards we turned into a nice staircase, and the half inchers my son turned into kitchen drawer sides and backs. That was 15 years ago.
I welded up a grab  hook arrangement to attach to the 3pth drawbar, and always pulled from this, never use the toplink to pull from unless you have prepaid funeral arrangements made. My 8N is a '51, my son has it now.
simonmeridew

[Okrafarmer]

Tdawg:
To give you an idea of the log size I have pulled, I had a 10 foot sugar maple log, 16 in diameter top end that I pulled down to my landing, lifting the butt end with the 3pth. I went back up to get the 2nd log, same length, 14 in top end and pulled it down to the landing.

You should be able to pull a whole lot more than that at one time. You should not have cut your logs to length, you should have limbed the tree and pulled the whole thing out at once. The John Deere B could pull out two full-size trees like that at once. And routinely did.