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Daily carnage thread

Started by mike_belben, July 23, 2018, 11:44:49 PM

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mike_belben

Ive not tried much of that stuff.  Too busy scraping by i guess. 
Praise The Lord

mike_belben


















Deere 140 rear end.. Wont find a dana truck carrier and axle shafts in any lawnmower made these days.  I got it stuck in a stump hole with a big overloaded firewood trailer years ago and was pressed for time. Forgot to engage the towing valves so the hydraulic fluid could bypass. Give it just a little twitch with the dozer and bang.  Stripped the bull gear on the pinion and chipped the hydrostat output shaft.  Finally getting around to putting another rear in it.

Ive had it scale 1800lbs with me on it in sled pull mode and never broke anything other than this.   Beast of a machine for its size.


Praise The Lord

Kim_Ked

So, not really a brutal breakdown by any means. But still many hours of work, sweating in the sun, covered in grease. Just the way I like it....
I had discovered a rotten hose under my excavator that is a suction line from the tank to the oil cooler. its a 2" steel line joined with a piece of flexible hydraulic line and clamps. Easy fix, but i had to drain the entire machine of hydraulic oil. Since it was down for this repair, I decided to tackle the only other leak on the machine, that has been there for sometime, but i was scared to tackle it. I had to split the pilot valve body to replace 2 precariously placed crush washers. It looked worse than it was and I even had the washers home to fix it.  

So now its all back together, ready for hydraulic oil.  

Now to my questions......  The last time I drained this machine and refilled it, upon starting it (within the first 2 seconds) I heard one loud crack from deep within. It was the hydraulic oil coming up to pressure through the system very fast and very hard.  Luckily, that time it didn't break anything. I'm wondering, what do some of you folks do to get oil through the machine before it starts. I'm worried about creating pump damage or worse.   

The only thing I can think of is to hold the kill cable all the way out and let it roll over a few times before fire up.  I'm going to call today and ask the dealer if there is an approved procedure, but I'm curious what some other folks here would do.

Its a 15 ton Daewoo Solar 130-3. Double Kawasaki pump system.

Thank you!
1995 Daewoo Solar 130-3, 2001 Customized Arbro1000, 1995 Case 685, Patu525, Chevy C10 383Stroker!

treemuncher

My Komatsu 6 series has a specific bleed sequence after ANY repairs to the hydraulic system. This usually starts will bleeding out air from the main pump prior to any engine start up or turn over. If I remember correctly, there are 5 specific bleed steps and the number of steps taken depends on the type of repairs performed.

It's good practice on any system to bleed the air out of the pumps BEFORE spinning it up if you have drained the system of all oil. Check with the manufacturer for correct sequence to get the air out of the system before beginning regular operations.

TreeMuncher.com  Where only the chosen remain standing

jimrr

I like this thread.   I suppose we all have these days but there are a couple here that are stupendous!!
   I'd like to say "glad it wasn't me" but who knows what tomorrow may bring?

Kim_Ked

Quote from: Kim_Ked on June 07, 2021, 06:06:03 AM
So, not really a brutal breakdown by any means. But still many hours of work, sweating in the sun, covered in grease. Just the way I like it....
I had discovered a rotten hose under my excavator that is a suction line from the tank to the oil cooler. its a 2" steel line joined with a piece of flexible hydraulic line and clamps. Easy fix, but i had to drain the entire machine of hydraulic oil. Since it was down for this repair, I decided to tackle the only other leak on the machine, that has been there for sometime, but i was scared to tackle it. I had to split the pilot valve body to replace 2 precariously placed crush washers. It looked worse than it was and I even had the washers home to fix it.  

So now its all back together, ready for hydraulic oil.  

Now to my questions......  The last time I drained this machine and refilled it, upon starting it (within the first 2 seconds) I heard one loud crack from deep within. It was the hydraulic oil coming up to pressure through the system very fast and very hard.  Luckily, that time it didn't break anything. I'm wondering, what do some of you folks do to get oil through the machine before it starts. I'm worried about creating pump damage or worse.  

The only thing I can think of is to hold the kill cable all the way out and let it roll over a few times before fire up.  I'm going to call today and ask the dealer if there is an approved procedure, but I'm curious what some other folks here would do.

Its a 15 ton Daewoo Solar 130-3. Double Kawasaki pump system.

Thank you!
So I had a short conversation with the lead mechanic at the Daewoo dealership yesterday.  He said there is a plug on top of the pump. Open it, let it bleed till fluid appears, then bump start the ,machine on and off quickly a few times so it doesn't reach full pressure, then I should be good to go.  
Iv already done this 3 times so far, trouble free, I just started thinking about the implications of letting the fluid wail through the system at full flow when empty.
thanks for reading
1995 Daewoo Solar 130-3, 2001 Customized Arbro1000, 1995 Case 685, Patu525, Chevy C10 383Stroker!

Nebraska

This isn't dramatic carnage I think I dodged some...
I bought a project tractor, an older little front wheel assist Kubota a couple months ago. It's rough but it started and ran.  The farmer I bought it from was a tractor puller and bought it in a package of 3 tractors from an estate and he didnt want to mess with this one.  I thought the exhaust smelled funny and it smoked more than it should, idle wasn't right.  So I thought well I'll see, I have spent more money on dummer things and hauled it home, put  it  in the barn.
 I finally ordered some parts it needed, and they started showing up yesterday. It was too hot to work out side on much last night so I got the little tractor out and put the new adjustment link on the three point  I  had found, then decided that since I ordered a fuel filter i would see about cleaning the fuel tank out and put some new fuel.  No sediment  bowl so I couldn't see what the diesel looked like. So I was going siphon the tank out. I cheated and grabbed my mineral oil pump and drench hose out of the truck and the pump almost matched the depth of the fuel tank perfectly.  I was hoping for red farm diesel flowing into my bucket but this stuff was what was in it for fuel....

 

It smelled funny almost sweet but not it's a smell I have smelled before and it reminded me of old bad oil based paint. So some sort of home brewed stuff.

 

This is some of the crude that was in the bottom of the tank, I sucked enough out it almost plugged my hose once.  That old fuel is in some old oil jugs to be used as fire starter. Some sort of bio diesel I guess... I pulled the input line off of the filter housing and rinsed the tank with clean fuel. Then I put just a couple gallons of new #2  and a quarter bottle of sea foam in the tank and fired it up.  We went for a mile and half ride to get new fuel all the way through and just see what it would do..  Once it started it ran fine exhaust didn't smell funny didn't smoke so I think I have a good motor to work with.. Have no clue what that was running on...

mike_belben

I see youve met "Poly."


Thats polymerized vegetable oil.  Old rotten "chicken skin" from a tank of vegetable oil that sat long enough to react with metals inside. Perhaps a brass fitting, but mild steel will do it too. Thats the oil based paint smell.  Im just about certain its a blend of pump fuel and veggie that didnt get diluted/consumed enough before sitting.  Old pure wvo probably wouldnt start, too thick with added heat source. 


My old kubota is running great on filtered waste motor oil and it doesnt react with anything long term.  Cannot tell any difference in performance except it smells like bad rings because its "burnin a little oil."
Praise The Lord

Nebraska

Well  she didn't make a good impression on me at first. Mike.  A tank removal, flushing  and a new epoxy liner if need be is on the list of things to polish on this septic project.  I wonder what the filter looks like..... ::) surprised it ran..

mike_belben

Never look down on a old bota. Exceptionally good.  Find a new diesel that would ingest that filth and still run!

That tank is a "just cant kill these things" testament.  A torture test win.  Hey lets feed it table scraps and see what happens!  Oh it still runs. Gee.
Praise The Lord

Ventryjr

 

 
Kind of hard to tell in the pic. But I "bumped" my 661 with a 25" hemlock tree. Really only smushed the handle. And bent the dogs.  Handle definitely needs replaced.  Looks like $175 on eBay  :(  I can't find any dealers that can get one to me sooner.  
-2x belsaw m14s and a Lane circle mill.

Satamax

My turn, and an expensive one.  :'(



 
French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

mike_belben

Oof.  Dropped a tree on it?
Praise The Lord

Satamax

Quote from: mike_belben on June 27, 2021, 12:25:49 PM
Oof.  Dropped a tree on it?
Nope, tried to drive it over a rock! 
French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

mike_belben

you okay?  looks like the rock did the driving over that day. sucks man.  still work other than the squirt boom?
Praise The Lord

Don P

Oww, how long is the cylinder?

Satamax

Quote from: Don P on June 27, 2021, 03:24:51 PM
Oww, how long is the cylinder?
Something like 6 feet or a smidge more. 
Quote from: mike_belben on June 27, 2021, 02:49:17 PM
you okay?  looks like the rock did the driving over that day. sucks man.  still work other than the squirt boom?
Well i store the squirt boom under the tanks usually. But i forgot that the ditch i had to pass was deep. My fault, i'm dumb! 
Look how i store it. 

First job when it's repaired. Make protection for the tubes and cylinders. And make a rest for the squirt boom  on top. Out of harm's way! 
French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

mike_belben

Now i get it.  I thought you rolled it. 
Praise The Lord

Satamax

The guy whom I called this morning told me 3500€ for a up551 cylinder. Lovely! Not! 
French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

Nebraska


Satamax

4438€ final quote.  :(
French CD4 sawmill. Latil TL 73. Self moving hydraulic crane. Iveco daily 4x4 lwb dead as of 06/2020. Replaced by a Brimont TL80 CSA.

Resonator

Check around salvage yards for something similar. Tilt deck car trailers, and multi level car hauler trucks use extra long hydraulic rams like that.
Under bark there's boards and beams, somewhere in between.
Cuttin' while its green, through a steady sawdust stream.
I'm chasing the sawdust dream.

Proud owner of a Wood-Mizer 2017 LT28G19

mike_belben

Im certain you could have a replacement rod manufactured for less. 
Praise The Lord

Corley5

A hydraulic shop should be able to fix that one.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

barbender

Yep, check into getting a new rod made👍
Too many irons in the fire

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