Identify large circular saw blade tips

Timberjack5 · August 18, 2020, 09:56:34 PM

I am building a large firewood processor that has to be able to handle Australian hardwood. I am looking at buying 2 x circular saw blades, they are 1500mm or 60 inches,
52mm spindle, 6mm thick. The attachable tips go out to 10 or 12mm. I've made enquires with several recognised saw blade specialists here in Australia and everyone is saying they haven't seen this setup before. They would be ideal for a firewood docking saw if I was able to replace the tips when needed. One fella recommended that I could go back to a braise on / weld on tungsten when these ones wore out.
Ideas and knowledge very welcome. I have a 200hp cat motor off a New Holland combine harvester that I am planning to power it with.

Timberjack5 · August 18, 2020, 10:16:21 PM

Here is a link to the advertisement for a better look at the photos

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/eight-mile-plains/miscellaneous-goods/60in-150cm-sawmill-blades-x-2-unused/1253956534

mike_belben · August 18, 2020, 10:35:20 PM

Cant help you with that info but i have plans to do the same. Whenever i find a big cheap blade beyond serviceability.

More than likely i will remove every other tooth, weld up hardface and reshape free hand using a grinder and some sort of template.

You can grind carbide with a wheel if needed to resharpen those inserts. Look up Corborundum. Theyre usually greenish.

BargeMonkey · August 18, 2020, 10:49:17 PM

Newer seen a tooth quite like that, 2 piece for a mill or a Simon's slasher tooth style but that's diff. I've got a 54" on a 6000 Bells, not abnormal to knock carbides off especially in really dry wood.

mike_belben · August 18, 2020, 10:53:41 PM

Whats a new 54 blank with teeth cost barge?

BargeMonkey · August 18, 2020, 11:28:39 PM

😆.... oh about 2400 bucks.... and DO NOT let other Bells guys know you've got 1, our spare disc has been borrowed once in a pinch already, factory was like 3wks out.

Timberjack5 · August 19, 2020, 12:27:04 AM

Thanks fellas
Mike, when you say weld up hard face onto the saw, are you saying just weld on with hardfacing electrode or wire or are you talking about braising tungsten or something on ?

By the way here is the old Zetor I am aiming to make a skidder tractor out of, yes it's very rough however I will fabricate some forestry guarding and it will come up looking good. I've got the winch on a gantry behind it in order to begin. I'm starting to wonder if this winch is just to heavy for the tractor, it must weigh a tonne. Tractor has got an undercarriage and a front blade on loader frame but I am wondering if I should make a wheeled skidding arch that takes the load of the winch with a super heavy drawbar to the tractor. Just putting it out there for ideas.

Timberjack5 · August 19, 2020, 12:32:30 AM

I've got a second one of these tractors in a 2 wheel drive version that I got just for parts so things like dual wheels or double butt are possible but I don't want to get too complex. Rather keep it simpler and get it running snugging logs while I keep an eye out for a Timberjack.

Satamax · August 19, 2020, 02:16:01 AM

You want to make the winch fixed or going up and down on the three point hitch? Because all the adapter plate can come off i think. So the winch can loose weight.

Satamax · August 19, 2020, 02:27:29 AM

Tractor data says 1750kg on the three point hitch.

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/003/3/6/3363-zetor-6945.html

Timberjack5 · August 19, 2020, 04:24:02 AM

Hello Satamax
Yes mate, I was thinking I would strip the linkage off the tractor. Shorten and modify the adapter plates on the winch. Bolt the winch up tight against the back of tractor so that the top of winch is directly behind the tractor seat. Just leave enough space to build a strong tidy little timberjack style cab around operator station with ample protection from the winch area.

Timberjack5 · August 19, 2020, 04:31:16 AM

Other option I suppose is to mount it on the linkage, could probably weld a butt blade into bottom of winch frame, winch should have enough weight to push that blade in a bit.
This way I've got the option of taking the winch off for other bush work where another implement can be run.
I know the linkage will lift the winch no worries, just wondering if it will all work when I've got a big log winch up and go to travel, solid mount with butt blade on a pair of double acting cylinders might work better for dragging logs.

mike_belben · August 19, 2020, 07:53:45 AM

Ugh i just lost a big post about your winch setup. I will get back to it later with a picture that took me too long to scroll around to find.

For the blade, no one is giving away good blades. The bigger they are the more people want to make coffee tables and signs from. And im poor so thats that. Whatever i get will be junk. And in years of trying ive still not got one. So honestly my backup plan has been to get a spent rock saw blank.. I am in quarry country and was a rock hauler so i know lots of veneer saw shops and could get one of those. They have diamond segments brazed to the rim.

I was just gonna put a lag bolt with a bushing into the side of a bench and trace out a tooth pattern to plasma cut into the rim, probably at every other segment for a coarse, fast cut and big chip clearance, then add a dab of hardface mig wire i have at the cutting edge. hand grind the gullets with a die grinder, hit the tooth face and rake with a flat grinder then hand file the edge and knock in the set and finally flap wheel buff it to take out stress risers and see what happens.

Judging by the sorry looking old tractor buzz saws that seemed to work just fine, i am certain i can make it work. I saw a youtube vid of a circle saw missing lots of teeth that crosscut firewood just fine, years ago. Metal is the only thing that ever listens to me anyway.

The hardface mig wire i have has no label on it.. It was what we built punch press dies up with at work and they scrapped the roll so i got it. Its what i used to build the knives on my front flail mower and they can flail cinder block and field stone without losing the edge. So this unknown electrode stands up to high pressure steel and abrasive aggregate, it should handle sandy wood. If not, i will find out what the stick electrodes were that i used to build up the demo shear knives with and try that. I mean if i live long enough, tomorrow isnt promised.

I do have 3 of these but theyre too small and with that large hub consuming capacity its just not worth building a processor with such limitation. I think theyre better saved for a scrag mill. I need to put up a building before i can go get my lathes before i can make the hubs anyway.

Riwaka · August 19, 2020, 08:38:48 AM

The knife makers repurpose saw blades, could be more profitable making boutique kitchen knives, than using the saw blades for fire wood.

Probably better to put modern available tungsten teeth on an old blade than start with obsolete teeth.

There are better tractorsthat have been parked in museums in Australia than that zetor.

mike_belben · August 19, 2020, 08:42:47 AM

I dont want to make knives, i want to stop getting carpal tunnel and tendenitis from firewood.

The tractor comment is pretty rude if im taking it as you intended. My apologies if not.

Crusarius · August 19, 2020, 01:17:23 PM

Hard mount the winch to the tractor then modify the 3pt arms to go around the winch and put a blade on it. Best of both worlds.

You should have a butt blate for logs anyhow.

Haleiwa · August 19, 2020, 04:03:37 PM

They look kind of like a hot saw tooth. Maybe contact Stahl's or someone who sells Quadco to see if they can match something based on measurements. I know it's not intended as a hot saw, but that's what the tooth style looks like to me.

Timberjack5 · August 19, 2020, 04:08:46 PM

Hello Haleiwa, thanks for that, I'm not sure what hot saw means, what's the application of a hot saw ?

Haleiwa · August 19, 2020, 04:15:39 PM

A feller buncher that uses a circular blade rather than a chainsaw type bar. Look up Quadco hotsaw teeth and you will see some illustrations.

Timberjack5 · August 19, 2020, 04:23:41 PM

Thanks Crusarius, you've given me something to think about there.

Mike, I get it with what you're telling me about repurposing the quarry saw. I did a lot of welding in my earlier days which included ships, pressure vessels, mining ground engagement, a lot like your photos at times.
These days a friend brings his earth augers over from time to time and I hard face them with elecrodes, a U.S. brand that I can't think of right now but I have them in the shed and I buy them as they are very reasonably priced and are top quality, they are 350 grade hardness which works well for that application.

Timberjack5 · August 19, 2020, 04:24:49 PM

Ok thanks Haleiwa, much appreciated.

Maine logger88 · August 19, 2020, 08:43:19 PM

They look a lot like my slasher teeth on my 60in circle saw slasher I can't quite tell in your pic if they are a replaceable shank like mine?

If yours don't rivet one like mine you can solder on new carbide tips I have never personally tried cause it's easier to just rivet in new ones

moodnacreek · August 19, 2020, 08:50:20 PM

Quote from: Maine logger88 on August 19, 2020, 08:43:19 PM
They look a lot like my slasher teeth on my 60in circle saw slasher I can't quite tell in your pic if they are a replaceable shank like mine?

If yours don't rivet one like mine you can solder on new carbide tips I have never personally tried cause it's easier to just rivet in new ones
Ditto, can't tell the tooth style. Menominee saw or B.H. Payne will know and probably have teeth.

Timberjack5 · August 20, 2020, 08:03:12 PM

Thanks Maine Logger and Moodnacreek
I have bought the 2 saws and picked them up yesterday. Wire brushed a few teeth this morning. These saws appear to be old but never used and likely on the packing frames they were sold with.
Remarkably I got them from a deceased estate sell off right in the middle of the city of Brisbane Qld. The old fella had a 12 acre block with a dozen or so large hoop pines up the back and he had a dream to mill them himself, it's all housing around it now, the pines are still there and the son in law said that they can't touch the pines now and development has to be built around them. He can't give me any further info, nobody knows where he got the 2 saws, they found them up the back buried under heaps of other stuff.
Anyway, the main blade is 7mm thick, 1500 diameter with tooth holders that are riveted on. The tooth itself has a round tapered shank with one side flat and it just bumps in and out. The front edge has a recess hole that appears like it could be for a screw however it is just a divet where a punch could be used to drive the taper in tight. It looks to me like a terrific setup for cutting hard timber where teeth cut be changed in a few minutes, if I can source the actual teeth it will be excellent. I paid $800 au for the pair.