Watcha Makin'?

[Don P]

Dowels is pretty common too.

[Texas Ranger]

I used extended tenons, took a little longer but I liked the additional stability. As far as I know none have failed.

[Tom King]

I make such long tenons on a Radial Arm Saw with a dado stack, after cutting the shoulders with a good blade.  There's always a little hand work to do to clean things up.

[Larry]

If you have a plunge router, wouldn't take much time to make a jig to cut the mortises.

Might be an excuse to buy a new toy!

[firefighter ontheside]

I will be building the doors with a Freud rail and stile set which will of course have the cope which will make for a lot of glue surface.  For the rail ends, you take the top part of the cutter off and then it will cut extended tenons by routing and then flipping over.  On the way to work I was thinking that if I do it, I will use a plunge bit in the router to make the mortise instead of trying to use the mortiser.  Might have to order a long 3/8 up spiral bit as I think my long ones are all 1/2".  Also thinking that instead of multiple passes with the router I might just set up my tenoning jig and a dado blade to do the tenons.  Then use the router for one pass to get the cope profile.

[firefighter ontheside]

I have several Larry and may go that route.  I was thinking of dropping the stile down onto the router table, but that may be tricky especially with the long stile.

[aigheadish]

I think I made some noise about it previously but I'm making a putter. This was my first go at an epoxy pour and this picture makes it look way nicer than it really looks. I expect to sand most of this epoxy off to have a thin layer that I'll build just a tiny bit up on. I messed up and forgot to tape off any parts, then I also used a ton of epoxy. Oh and it's real old and hasn't been kept in a temperate place, so it's probably seen some freezes. All in all it worked pretty well and I didn't know that so little went so long.

The other post is here. 

[firefighter ontheside]

That's a fun project.  I'm interested to see how it works for you.

[kelLOGg]

My next door neighbor's gate was in a mess so a friend and I installed a new one for her. We used treated wood so no sawmilling was involved except for beveled shims to correct for leaning posts. See before and after.



 

 

 

[Ljohnsaw]

I like that latch!

[Texas Ranger]

cool gate, the old one has the cross bars wrong.

[aigheadish]

Nice gate and it looks like a beautiful property!

Hey, Texas Ranger, I've seen a couple people, in various contexts mention the cross bars on doors or gates that way. Is the idea that the cross bar should be pushing against the bottom of the post or door jam, instead of pulling the top of the post or door jam? My shop doors are the same angle and while I plan to rebuild them eventually I don't know how big a deal it is if it's wrong.

[doc henderson]

tension vs compression.

[kelLOGg]

In general I think compression is better. 

[Ljohnsaw]

Ok, hold on guys. You're starting to sound like my 'neighbors' on Nextdoor!

If I zoom in, it looks like the X overlaps, or at the very least, half-laps in the middle. So, both are using compression forces to keep the gate from sagging. I think.

Personally, I prefer a turnbuckle on the tension side for adjusting later.

[doc henderson]

the original one could be pulled apart over the years.  the opposite way, the wood joints would get tighter (if it was reversed) on the old gate.  I think!    at least the brace is under forces to pull away on the old one.  compress into the corner joints if reversed.    more like a post and beam construction,  ya gotta love triangles! :D :D.  a corner post is braced at the top of a big corner post and butt into the next post at the bottom so the forces compress it all together.  then the fasteners are just keeping things aligned.

[kelLOGg]

You're right. The  X is a lap joint. There is a tension wire and turnbuckle pulling parallel to the fence and attached to a steel stake 3.5' in the ground. That is not enough depth- I will soon add a 5+ footer. The ground is softer than I thought. Happy pounding to me. I wanted to add a rail like that shown but I would have had to remove the fence to pour concrete. Whole other level of effort. 

[firefighter ontheside]

I'm loving this door.  The 3/8" bit I had only had a cutting lenght of 1 1/4", so guess how long my extended tenons are.   I put them on every rail, so I think it will hold.  I did not plan for the mullions to have extended tenons, but guess what I did when I routed them.  Yep, I routed them with extended tenons.  That made them all too short.  Luckily I had one piece of 4" elm left over so I made a new mullion to replace the shortest one with one a few inches longer.  No one will ever know.  I'm going to glue it up tomorrow morning.  I made a crude jig for my router.  I just screwed some pieces of wood to either side of the base and clamped some 2x2 pieces to either side for stability while I routed the mortises.  Worked great.


 

 

[kelLOGg]

Like those poplar panels. Can you keep the color when they are finished?

[firefighter ontheside]

I'm going to try some spar varnish with UV protection to try and keep the green color.

[Larry]

Good looking door.

It looks like your quickly router jig worked well.

[firefighter ontheside]

I started making the raised panels with a horizontal panel raising bit, but it was burning and not cutting well.  I think I need to have that bit sharpened.  Then I remembered that I bought a vertical bit.  The drawback of that bit is that you have to stand the panel up against the fence while routing.  It worked a lot better and made some nice panels.

[Texas Ranger]

On the old gate the cross bar pivots down, new gate should prevent that.

[Hilltop366]

I think I need to have that bit sharpened.

I touch up router bits with a diamond file, never tried a large bits but it should work.

It seems to make quite a difference, as soon as I see any signs of dull bit like easy burning or rough finish a quick touchup on the flat part of the carbide and were good again.

Door looks nice.

[Crusarius]

FFOTS, My new go to has been danish oil. I really like how it makes the character of the wood pop. You may want to try some of that if you have some.