Useful sawmill mods

[MVDeerxing]

I was only shown to cut having the head cutting towards me, this way works best in my mill building. I have never tried cutting at the hitch end


At the hitch end I have a Wood-Mizer board outfield table, lumber to the front of the mill and slabs out the back right out a sliding door. Not the double set of doors seen in my photo there is another door opposite my outfield table. No real room for my remote control station.


Question for you why do you prefer cutting the hitch end, as you have cut both ends of your mill?



Looking at the Wood-Mizer web site the new 70 has the operator the same as myself.



The way I see it I see the whole log, without looking between the post, mill head, board return arm and return fingers.

I have been thinking about this 'which end?" question more than I probably should. First, it's not an option for us anyway, but second, it is hard to wrap my brain around since I never knew it existed. I have been thinking about every little step I do when I roll a log up and many of them seem more difficult working from the 'far end'.
The main issue for me is: How do you plan your log when you are at the far end? That first cut can be critical to getting maximum output from the log and seeing where you are entering for that cut is important to me. I roll the log to do 'worst face first' in most cases and try to get a face cut width that allows me to produce the desired cant size without an extra cleanup cut later. I bring the blade down to that approximate width and sight right down the blade to see how much wane I might get, then adjust to minimize that wane. I just don't see how you can do this from 30' away.
Using the toe boards should be about the same from either end, level is level. But a lot of other functions, like not slamming into the end bumper on rapid return and things like that will all be difficult or impossible (for me) to do. Things like guiding that board flying back with the board return can't be done. The 50 I run does not have fingers, it has that drop down fence so the boards often steer themselves into places that would be a disaster if they were unattended.
Again, I am not criticizing stuff that obviously works well for you and your setup (and others too, I see). I am just trying to understand it because it's a brand new concept to me. I just find it fascinating is all.

OG,
It is good to Think and re-think before you move, build, or cut anything. Something I learned in trade school a few years ago (HAHA!) Measure twice cut once.
For myself, planing what to do with a log starts in my forest, the log once down will talk to me by looking at any defects, sweep, knots, any number of things. Sometimes after the tree is all limbed I will write on the but end what I want to cut from the log, or when they are on my log cradle outside the mill they get marked up from my stock list.
I have a laser on my mill that helps, and also keeps any chrome away. Once the log is on the mill sometimes I will roll the log any number of times to get the best cut, sometimes the log will only go one way. Called reading the log. Then just as you think that you have read the log and you take your first cut Boom. Stress tells you how you now need to cut the log, no two logs are the same, close but not the same sometimes.
Now most times I put the butt end up to the mill head end, but can cut ether way. 
"I just don't see how you can do this from 30' away."

Laser, tape measure, good eyes and learn to read the log. This works for me.

Looking at my mill photo where my operator stand is go to your 50 and sit for a spell with a log on the bed. You will see the whole log. 
Now go to the other end. You are looking through the mill head, around the post to see the log. I am not trying to change anything or anyone here, because there a lot sawyers that cut more wood that myself and do just fine at the end that works for them. But as I stated earlier I was first taught this way and it works for myself in my building.
"not slamming into the end bumper on rapid return"

Do you back your truck using your mirror or turn your head, and at the same time control the gas peddle. You get a feel for distance using your mirrors. After being around the 50 for a while you get feel for where things ate and slow down when you should. Time is your friend = experience.

So I work all by myself, and use all the options on my mill to my advantage. Board return arm and return fingers are my cheep helper.

You will find what works for you as everyone does. Good Luck 

In the construction trade we have equipment drivers and operators, the good ones are operators. The Drivers we did without, they always break the equipment.

[Old Greenhorn]

MV, I didn't just ride in on a wagon load of pumpkins. I know how to read a log and I said as much in my last post, I just didn't use your catch phrase, so perhaps you missed that? I do not have the privilege of getting to know each log as it hits the ground and spending up close and personal time with it. I 'meet the log'  when it rolls off the loader arms onto to the bed. It's a short relationship before it becomes a cant. ;D I am doing production milling, time is money. Sometimes it takes me a minute or two to figure out the best opening face based on defects, most times it is a 30 second affair. Rarely do I spend more than that except special logs.
 
I don't have a laser (wish I did) and I don't know how I back my truck up has anything to do with this, but for the record I use mirrors when I am just backing up, but I turn around and look when I am lining up with a trailer. It just seems to me that you are relying a lot on that "laser, tape measure, and good eyes" more than I would like to. I have been running some very expensive machinery for over 45 years and one thing I take as a fact 'learned from experience' is that a single error on my part can cause a very expensive error on the machines part. When I run long logs I sometimes only have 4' of clearance from when the blade clears the back end of the log to where the head hits the end bumper. I can usually land the head in the right spot 8 out of ten times, but those other 2 times, I need a little extra bump back. I'd rather not do that from 30' away.

 You have your system, and it works for you. Based on that you should carry on and be happy. For me, I can tell you it would make for a miserable experience and I will stick with what I am doing because it works for me. Thanks for explaining your system. I am in awe that you have mastered it and it works well for you. It's just not for me.

[Southside]

So at the moment I am doing an injector job on one my tractors, so it's in the photo, but this gives you an idea of my primary breakdown layout. 
Logs are dropped on the 6x's that make a deck, lumber comes past the controller, slabs are pushed onto the edger outfeed table, and lumber rolls back to the edger operator where it's either run through or stacked as is to the right in front of the tractor. We usually have 5 or 6 sorts and the last one is the slabs and edgings junk rack. As you can see access is easy. 

 

 


Oh and the mill has lights too. 


 


 

[Old Greenhorn]

I like your flow path SS. I wish I could print that out with the photos so I could show it to the Boss. This is something like I would like to see us do with our setup and it would fit (once we move about 20 tons of logs  ;D).

[Walnut Beast]

Nice setup Southside 👍

[Bandmill Bandit]

Well I have had enough of damaged bands from metal strikes.

We may be biting off a bit much BUT my son says we can do it.  He has built a prototype 8" rod type metal detector to test concept and he says it works well and he is now working on a 30" long detector tube that will run off the mill power supply. 

The concept is to build a "C" shaped unit to mount on the mill just inside the Debarker and have it wired in to stop the forward motion of the carriage upon detection of tramp metal. 

Steve says wiring is quite simple. Isolation of the detection unit may be the toughest part but there is a lot of farm equipment out there with detectors that work very well. I think we will get this licked pretty easily!

Steve says he pretty much has it done in his head. 
Detection tube will be 1.5" PVC scd #40 pipe. 

Stay tuned. Its on the drawing board with proto type components in the works. probably be April or May till we get to testing.   

[fluidpowerpro]

I added a valve that turns on the water when I throttle up.

 

 

[Bandmill Bandit]

I have a dealer installed solenoid valve that turns on the water when I engage auto clutch to start sawing. It is very simple and not expensive to do. I've messed with a windshield washer pump to apply the lub mix to the band but I would need to mount a 45 gal drum on the mill to hold the lube the way that goes through the lube mix. Gravity is just fine for my needs so far.

[doc henderson]

can you get a pic of the solenoid valve?  maybe with some ID numbers.  I have a manual valve, but when you turn it, the hose turns also, and my helpers want to hold the hose and it breaks the valve.  I now go through and explanation and demonstration as I often let them do that task.

[ktm250rider]

I used a 1/4" NPT Brass electric solenoid valve, normally closed for water, air and diesel.  Its tied to my motor forward switch.  So when i go to reverse, the valve closes.  

[doc henderson]

my forward and back are direct hydraulic, but the blade has an electric clutch I can tie into.  I may go with barbed and put it in line, we will see.  thanks!

[Bandmill Bandit]

Hey Doc 

I'll get it for you BUT my mill is in Terrace and I am a month away from the move up there. I'll check if I can find it in the owners/parts manuals I have in PDF form and get you some info. 

Marty may have the info at his finger tips. 

[LeeB]

Mfg part number - G51190145 Parker. WM part number - 016280 Valve, Waterlube Solenoid. These are the numbers from my woodmizer manual but I don't find this number when searching Parker's catalog.

[doc henderson]

something like this?  on amazon 30 bucks.  normally closed 12v water/diesel.

[LeeB]

Simular. The Wm one has mounting screw holes on the bottom side.

[LeeB]

[LeeB]

 

 

[Bandmill Bandit]

Simular. The Wm one has mounting screw holes on the bottom side.

That is pretty much the same as the valve on my mill. I think that one may well have the 2 mounting holes in the bottom by the shape of the brass base.

The drawing that Lee posted is the way mine is plumbed as well. The out barb is oriented across mill frame with the tube routed to the blade guide nozzle barb and the 90° elbow is pointed to the reservoir connection barb.   

[fluidpowerpro]

There are tons of valves out there of this design and they all should work. Just want to make sure they are made out of materials that wont corrode in water and is a N/C, 2 way. 
The main difference in like valves is the orifice size under the poppet. A valve with a smaller orifice will be rated to higher pressure because its a function of orifice area and coil force. 
Because this is a low pressure application, I would go with the biggest orifice available to minimize the chance of clogging should a little contamination get in your lube.

[Bandmill Bandit]

What he said times 2!

I run an inline AV fuel screen on mine. Its a PITA cause you do have to clean it about once a week but a clogged nozzle is a enough PITA for 3 or 4 of us. there are easy to clean. Just don't mount it where you have take guards ro get at it.

NO! You CAN'T ask how I know that!! 

[Magicman]

This mod is not my idea but rather one that I saw on @customsawyer 's sawmill during the Project.

A dimpled frame is caused when huge/oversize logs roll off of the loader arms and onto the bed rails, including the movable bed rails.  A portion of that weight is concentrated on the adjustment bolt on the end of the movable rail so dimples can happen.
 
I have welded dimples and then surfaced then off, but this is much better.  I had dimples again, front and rear so this was perfect timing.


 
This is Jake's.  I watched where he told about it in a video, but I was not there so when I spied it, a light went off. 



 
First , add 2" & 4" X ¼" plate to the frame covering the dimples.  Front and


 
Rear.



Front painted with Ace Hardware orange paint and


 
then the rear.

Next loosen the two height adjustment bolts underneath the movable bed rails and



reinstall them.  Adjust/lower the movable bed rails to the correct height.


 
I seriously doubt that I will ever have a dimpled frame again.  

[Ljohnsaw]

MM,
Not familiar with that phrase, what are these dimples you are speaking of?

[lumberjack1986]

The adjustment bolt on the swinging bed rail collapses the top wall of the tube from the weight of the log on the head of the adjustment bolt.

[Ljohnsaw]

Got it.  A crease in the thin tube.

[Magicman]

I did not take any pictures showing the effect of heavy logs causing the adjustment bolt to dimple/collapse the frame. 

Note that this is not an occurrence with 'normal' size logs but one that can and does happen when you are loading logs that greatly exceed the stated working capacity of the sawmill.  Jake did it for years loading those looong logs, and I do it sawing whatever the customer has.  I would not classify Wood-Mizer's frame tubing as "thin" but it certainly is not ¼".  What we now have is the sawmill's frame tubing plus another quarter inch.

I sawed several Red Oak logs a few weeks ago that exceeded 40" and have several more to go before I finish the job that I am presently sawing.