OldJarheads Milling Thread...

OlJarhead · March 27, 2017, 02:09:57 PM

Thanks Guys

It's been a journey!

I just ordered 15 more 10 degree bands (it's what I know and WM says I should get 750-1000bf per band but that if the logs were dry that would reduce their life).

I also ordered two 4 degree bands on their advice. I want to try them on the big logs to see how they do as it sounds like they may be the ticket on big dryer logs.

Peter Drouin · March 27, 2017, 09:01:10 PM

Over time you won't think about the blades. Once you find the one or two [style] that works for you. You want them to last as long as it can. But, sawing is the $$$$. Blades get used up like gas for your truck.
So when they're dull from one log or 20. Just put on a sharp one and go.

smiley_biggrin01

OlJarhead · March 28, 2017, 10:05:02 PM

Hard at it on a big log

paul case · March 28, 2017, 11:23:34 PM

MAN that background sure is beeeautiful.

PC

Ljohnsaw · March 28, 2017, 11:46:43 PM

Quote from: OlJarhead on March 28, 2017, 10:05:02 PM

Hard at it on a big log

Sort of looks like it... Did you use the MM trick to saw that bad boy?

OlJarhead · March 28, 2017, 11:57:39 PM

No but I remembered it later and will next time

Weekend_Sawyer · March 30, 2017, 04:00:50 PM

Man, you are rippin and runnin!
Can you add your grand total every now and then.
That way we get to watch your progress to the million bf club.

OlJarhead · March 30, 2017, 04:21:33 PM

Thanks

I'm over 50,000bf now at around 53500 but I'd have to double check my figures

I should pass 60k by the end of the month (April) and with luck will break 100k this year

fishfighter · March 30, 2017, 05:53:53 PM

Quote from: paul case on March 28, 2017, 11:23:34 PM
MAN that background sure is beeeautiful.

PC

It is, but I don't see no trees, just logs to dust. :D

BrentWV · March 31, 2017, 10:58:32 AM

A while ago you said the top rail on your mill rusted. I cover mine with inch and a half plastic pipe with a half inch slot cut in it.It snappes on tight and keep the AFT from washing off.

OlJarhead · March 31, 2017, 12:15:52 PM

Quote from: BrentWV on March 31, 2017, 10:58:32 AM
A while ago you said the top rail on your mill rusted. I cover mine with inch and a half plastic pipe with a half inch slot cut in it.It snappes on tight and keep the AFT from washing off.

Good idea! What do you do for the bottom rail? Same thing?

Magicman · March 31, 2017, 01:12:59 PM

No, you could not prevent it from trapping water on the bottom rail. My sawmill is exposed to the weather 24/7 and all that the top rail ever gets is an oil wipe down. Of course it is never idle more than a couple of weeks.

OlJarhead · March 31, 2017, 01:57:12 PM

I made the mistake of letting mine sit int he snow for three months uncovered. I planned to cover it and then the snow beat me to it. The rust is mostly gone now ;) but I hate it! I got the wire brush out and worked it over pretty well and recoated it but next winter it will be covered.

ncsawyer · March 31, 2017, 03:32:16 PM

Quote from: OlJarhead on March 31, 2017, 12:15:52 PM
Quote from: BrentWV on March 31, 2017, 10:58:32 AM
A while ago you said the top rail on your mill rusted. I cover mine with inch and a half plastic pipe with a half inch slot cut in it.It snappes on tight and keep the AFT from washing off.

Good idea! What do you do for the bottom rail? Same thing?

Mine stays under a shelter when not in use (I sometimes saw under the shelter, if the logs are at home), but I use PVC pipe with just as described above on the top rail of my mill. Even under the shelter if the wind blows hard enough it can get some moisture on the rails and make them want to rust.

If I do end up getting a little rust on them, I use some steel wool to get it off. But mine gets run most weekends so I don't ever have to worry about it too much.

Kbeitz · March 31, 2017, 03:37:10 PM

Try the green kitchen scratch pads...

BrentWV · March 31, 2017, 04:37:33 PM

I guess mine didn't sit long enough for the bottom one to rust. It always felt slick with ATF.

4x4American · March 31, 2017, 08:56:11 PM

The bottom rail has a sliding ground on it. Don't put atf on it!!

Bandmill Bandit · March 31, 2017, 11:34:07 PM

The MOST effective product I have found for the copper strip AND the rails (top & bottom)is Amsoil MPF. It works so well I havent touched either of those components with a wire brush in the last year and a bit. Rust/corrosion is not really an issue with faithful use of the MPF.

ATF does not touch my mill any where for any reason. My over all maintenance is much cleaner and less time consuming as a result.

My felt wiper does not pick up near the sawdust because it doesnt stick to the lubricant.

4x4American · March 31, 2017, 11:40:36 PM

This stuff BB?

Bandmill Bandit · April 01, 2017, 04:15:10 PM

Yes that is the stuff and I may have to get someone to send me a few cans. Can't get the heavy duty stuff up here any more it seems. The lighter duty stuff does work pretty good but do have to use more of it.

OlJarhead · April 03, 2017, 09:01:33 AM

Crap!!! :( >:(

Customer distracted me during setup and I ran the guide arm into the ramps!!!@. It's tweaked but still seems to be tracking correctly just the guard appears damaged.

I'm thinking I should have it replaced? Cost? Easy to do yourself? Need WM?

Rough day yesterday with 3 bands hitting nails lots of unruly knots in the logs and almost all logs 20' 6" but not real big...still getting it done though and will put in a full day today before heading home.

paul case · April 03, 2017, 09:07:03 AM

All 3 of the woodmizers I have had that guard on the front of the guide arm break and fall off or make so much racket we took them off. Makes blade changing a little easier. I know that s a safety guard, but we never have a off bearer in front of the mill head.
I always seem to have the biggest screw ups when someone is watching.
PC

Magicman · April 03, 2017, 06:17:40 PM

Erik, how about a picture. I am thinking that you are talking about the guard/tray that hangs below the blade? That is some tough metal, but heating should allow you to straighten it enough to be OK.

terrifictimbersllc · April 04, 2017, 06:36:38 AM

Quote from: OlJarhead on April 03, 2017, 09:01:33 AM
Crap!!! :( >:(

Customer distracted me during setup and I ran the guide arm into the ramps!!!@. It's tweaked but still seems to be tracking correctly just the guard appears damaged.

I'm thinking I should have it replaced? Cost? Easy to do yourself? Need WM?

New guide arm is about $140. I've broken mine off twice at the weld where the guide roller mount is attached and both times re-welded it, the first time myself and the second time by a friend who knows how to weld. It won't break there again.

Can't say about yours but most of the repair is about checking and re-alignment which is part of what you do anyway in an alignment. The guide arm should travel parallel to the bed from in to out maybe 1/32 higher when it's out than in (vertical alignment). And it should travel in/out so it is always the same distance behind the roller to the blade (horizontal alignment). And it should be tight in the rollers (when it is al the way in, you should not be able to move it sideways or up/down. All of these 3 are accomplished by adjusting the arm guide rollers according to instructions in the manual. :P

It is special fun to adjust the rollers using the cam bolts and the double lock nuts. As someone said somewhere else maybe make sure you don't need to go to the bathroom before you begin. :laugh: